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This post is slightly belated… but I wanted to put a quick note on here to say that Vida London is closed for the foreseeable future.

The blog is still getting some traffic and email enquiries, so the posts will remain for the time being. I am working on other projects, and no longer live in London (though I am there regularly). You can still follow me on Twitter.

Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to read and comment on my posts!

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Brooklyn Heights: A wander

Cast your eyes across the East River and downtown Brooklyn looks like the backdrop to 1940s film noir – all warehouses and wharves and somber apartment buildings.

But go one block back, above the Brooklyn Queens Expressway, and you’ll find one of America’s best-preserved historic neighbourhoods.

Brooklyn Heights

Brooklyn Heights

Brooklyn Heights – as the name might suggest – sits on a bluff overlooking Manhattan. Its leafy streets are lined with New York’s signature brownstones, as well as older, pre-Civil War brick homes and clapperboard houses.

Brooklyn Heights houses

Brooklyn Heights – too much loveliness.

It’s as lovely as Greenwich Village, which it resembles, but lacks the tourists and the bars – apart from a handful around Montague Street.

Pumpkins, Brooklyn Heights

Pumpkins, Brooklyn Heights.

The street names are evocative: Pineapple St, Cranberry St, Orange St. On the latter you’ll find Plymouth Church of the Pilgrims, from whose pulpit Henry Ward Beecher (brother of Harriet Beecher Stowe) gave abolitionist speeches.

Walt Whitman lived behind the church and even Abraham Lincoln was known to stop by (Americans are keen to celebrate the best bits of their relatively short history, which is fair enough; to my eyes, the church looked spotlessly clean and brand new).

Brooklyn Heights

Brooklyn Heights – a house here would be nice.

Heading west, each street ends with a view over downtown Manhattan. Some houses have grand bay windows; others display family portraits in gilt frames on their living room walls; still others have grand back gardens like Kensington townhouses – an astonishing rarity in New York. Approaching the edge of the district, the heavens opened on us, and the city was doused in an apocalyptic light.

Rainstorm moves in over Manhattan

Rainstorm moves in over Manhattan.

With autumn colours (or fall colors) tingeing the trees, residents put out pumpkins on the front steps. Cats prowl their stoops, people walk their dogs, shop windows throw light on the sidewalk, and a man walks by with flowers.

Brooklyn Heights shop

Brooklyn Heights shop.

Two miles away, traffic rumbles down Flatbush Avenue and people are shopping at Target (a sort of US Tesco). But this is another world: it’s genteel, it’s old world, it’s moneyed. It’s both not of New York and very much of it.

Manhattan

Manhattan – all gloomy.

Ending on the Esplanade, looking back over Manhattan in the gathering gloom, the scene looked like a grimy still from a Woody Allen film. Brooklyn Heights hunkers down, turns in on itself, and says, “we’re all very well here, thank you very much”.

I’d like a house here, please, if it’s not too much trouble.

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